Features

Curry: The Recipe for a National Love Affair

Tuesday, 11 January 2011

Curry is arguably the nation's favourite dish but what is it? Is there a single recipe? Thankfully not. That would be boring. For foodies everywhere, the discovery of a decent selection of Indian recipes opens up a whole new world of wonderful menus that make a nice change from the norm.

Anyone who says they dislike curry may well have no grasp of what a curry actually is. Derived from the Tamil word kari, a curry is originally thought to have meant simply 'gravy' or 'sauce' and may or may not contain an array of spices. The heart of a curry dish usually consists of a group of spices collectively known as Garam Masala.

Although this mixture, sometimes marketed simply as 'curry powder', varies from region to region and person to person the key spices that make up the blend usually remain the same. A hot curry powder will probably have added chilli whereas a mild curry powder will probably just be the basic spices with a little more turmeric and cumin.

So how did the Brits fall in love with curry? It seems that curry is not as new to us as many think. In 1747 Hannah Glasse published a cookery book containing a recipe for 'currey sauce' that used black pepper, coriander, ginger and turmeric. This must have been a somewhat novel experience compared to the average mutton stew and mash recipe of the day; and while it was a far cry from the curry we now enjoy it was a step in the right direction.

Even the fabulous Mrs Beeton got in on the act, her book on household management offers a simple recipe for curry powder and goes on to mention that it can also be purchased from the shops. Mrs Beeton cutting corners? She may as well have been writing today for we are spoiled for choice in the supermarkets with the choice of either ready-mixed Garam Masala or the spices to make it yourself easily available. Garam Masala is perfectly acceptable when used from a jar and an essential for any budding Indian cook.

In 1810, a Bengali entrepreneur opened an Indian restaurant in Portman Square, London. The Hindoostanee Coffee House was perhaps ahead of its time as it closed just a few years later.

The growing fame of Indian food and recipes carried on into the 1920s when Bengali sailors from the docks set up small restaurants to feed other sailors in and around many ports. The food was so popular that recipes were highly-prized, and heavily guarded possessions.

Over time menus expanded, families settled and so the first British Indian restaurants were opened and it is them we can thank for our curry craving nation today!

Many people discover their first Indian recipe after hearing the news that they are to entertain a vegetarian. Fed up of dry nut roasts and lentil pasta bakes cooks across the country have begun to explore the awesome treasure trove of Indian Vegetarian recipes. These mean that no longer does the poor vegetarian end up with something different to everyone else, instead their meal is centre stage; something that everyone will enjoy.

One of the best ways in which to eat Indian food is a Thali, one or two main dishes and a selection of sides, often with no meat. All you have to do now is hope that your vegetarian friends like curry!

It would be entirely incorrect to assume that the average Indian curry recipe should be without meat. It really does vary depending on which region of India the recipe you are cooking originates from. Think of the sheer size of India. Geographically some areas such as Rajasthan are very arid and the lack of water means less fruit and vegetables are grown successfully. The ones that do grow are valuable and eaten as a side dish in the form of dals and achars, a preserve or pickle. To whet your appetite here's a simple recipe for a typical dal that can accompany any Indian dish.


Classic Red Dal Recipe

Ingredients:
• One tablespoon sesame or olive oil
• Two tablespoons tomato paste or puree
• Two onions, finely chopped
• Two cloves of garlic, chopped
• One tablespoon of fresh or dried ginger, chopped
• 400ml water or vegetable stock
• One handful of red lentils, rinsed in water
• One teaspoon of cumin
• One teaspoon of coriander
• One teaspoon of turmeric
• A quarter of a teaspoon of cardamom seeds
• A quarter of a teaspoon of cinnamon
• A quarter of a teaspoon of cayenne pepper

The lovely thing about this recipe is that the measurements do not have to be exact. This is how much of Indian cookery works; it is tailored to individual taste. Once you've mastered the recipe you can adapt it as you wish; for example, by adding fresh chilli paste or a little lemon juice.

Firstly, you need to choose a medium-sized pan, preferably with a heavy base. Often in Indian cookery spices and oils go in first so the heavier the base the more constant the heat and more evenly your Indian delicacy will cook.

Arrange your pan on the hob over a low heat, warm the oil and then add the onion, garlic and ginger. Allow these to soften and for the onion to become a little translucent, this will take approximately six minutes.

Next add the water or vegetable stock, all the spices and a pinch of salt if required. Bring to the boil slowly; lower the heat and simmer away for about 20 minutes or until the lentils are tender. Remove from the heat, stir in the tomato paste and serve as a side dish or on a cold day as a thick soup with crusty bread.

Recopies such as this are low fat, low fuss and full of flavour, so don't be afraid to get stuck in and enjoy cooking Indian cuisine.

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